Welcome to this exploration of the history and built heritage of Pollokshields, Glasgow's very own 'Garden Suburb' which was planned and built in the mid-nineteenth century.

Engraving of Pollokshields, 1829

This engraving dates from 1829 before Pollokshields had been developed. It was titled "View of Glasgow from the Farm of Shields", with a view looking towards the Cathedral in the distance. What is surprising is the number of multi-storey buildings and chimney stacks in the foreground, presumably in the Gorbals and surrounding districts.
The vantage point for the image would have been situated somewhere around the farmhouse at "Shiels", shown in the map below.


Map of Shiels 1795

The map above was surveyed about 30 years before the engraving and shows the farm buildings at "Shiels" situated on the hilltop (or knowe) at the present day junction of Shields Road and Albert Drive. Shields Cottage is shown at "L.Shiels" (for Laigh Shields), near where you would now find the junction of St Andrews Drive and Shields Road.


The extensive garden suburb of Pollokshields was developed on land owned for centuries by the Maxwells of Pollok in the parish of Govan in the county of Renfrewshire.
Sir John Maxwell, the 8th baronet, built a bridge over the canal and railway lines at Shields Road, linking Kinning Park to the present day St Andrews Drive.
This description from 1841 of a train journey on the newly opened Glasgow and Ayrshire Railway describes the train passing under the bridge at Shields Road, then described as the road leading "from the Paisley road to Pollokshaws". The description of Shiels Cottage matches the house shown as "L.Shiels" in the earlier map.

Map of Shiels 1795

A detailed study of the development of the railway at this location can be found at the Pollokshields Stations section of this website.


In 1849 Sir John Maxwell commissioned the noted architect David Rhind to draw up a Feuing Plan for the development of fields of Shiels Farm. The suggested layout was never actualised, but the general idea of a tenemental area to the east of Shields Road and an area of villas to the west rapidly became a reality.

Feuing plan from 1849 showing proposed development of Pollokshields as a planned suburb

Feuing plan from 1849 showing proposed development of Pollokshields as a planned suburb


Aerial view of Maxwell Square, the little park at the centre of East Pollokshields

Aerial view of Maxwell Square, the little park at the centre of East Pollokshields


In 1851 residential development began along the road which ran parallel to the canal and the railway near the site of Shiels Cottage at Laigh (Scots for Low) Shiels. The first phase of the development progressed over the next 25 years, leading to Pollokshields acheiving the status of an independent burgh for a short period from 1876 to 1891, after which it became part of the city of Glasgow.

Early map of Pollokshields

The map above shows Pollokshields consisting of a few rows of dwellings situated alongside the Glasgow, Paisley and Ardrossan Canal and the railway lines west of Shields Road. This earliest part of Pollokshields was redeveloped in the late 1960's and early 1970's when the old houses were replaced with blocks of flats.
The future site of the large houses in the planned garden suburb is shown on the map as "(Part of) Titwood", around a steading named "Haggbowse"
The area east of Shields Road was a separate burgh, East Pollokshields, which was developed with upmarket tenemental housing.
Having being created as a carefully planned suburb, Pollokshields had a total prohibition on trade. Neighbouring East Pollokshields was however allowed the shops, schools and other classes of buildings you would expect to find in a typical Victorian neighbourhood. There were no licensed premises permitted in either district.


This description of a train journey passing through Pollokshields in 1852 gives an impression of the area before and after the development of the sandstone villas.

Description of Pollokshields from railway


Map showing of the earliest part of Pollokshields at Shields Bridge

Map showing "Cottages" and "Villas" in the earliest part of Pollokshields at Shields Bridge


The only remaining building shown in this section of the old map is “South Bank” a detached villa on the north side of St Andrews Drive which is now a Sikh Temple.

View of South Bank, the only surviving house shown the north side of the map

View of "South Bank", the only surviving house shown the north side of the map


The aerial view shows South Bank completely overwhelmed - surrounded by Shields Railway Depot and modern housing developments.

Aerial view of

Aerial view of "South Bank" and surrounding modern developments


The example, below, of early semi-detached houses in Pollokshields shows that the original dwellings were much more modest in size and in the extent of their garden grounds compared to those which would come later. This house was situated on the north side of Maxwell Drive on the present site of St Albert's School.

House at Pollokshields, 1926

1926 view of semi-detached house at Pollokshields, now demolished


Design for a Double villa at Pollokshields, c.1858

Design for a Double villa at Pollokshields, c.1858


It was insisted upon that the villas of Pollokshields were all built to different plans. No two villas were permitted to be exactly alike. The number of large villas was greatly expanded from the 1880's through to the completion of the planned suburb around 1910.
Public green space was provided by Maxwell Park which opened in 1890. The large gardens surrounding the houses were widely planted with broad-leaved trees such as beech, sycamore and lime. There were also trees planted on the kerbsides of the broad avenues to add to the overall greenery and give some spectacular autumn colour.

House at Pollokshields, 1926

Detached villa, built 1886, as part of later development in Avenues west of St Andrews Drive, Pollokshields


Haggs Castle in St Andrew's Drive was originally built as a defensive tower house in the 1580's. It was restored as a dwelling house during Victorian times when modern day Pollokshields was being developed. It had a number of different uses before returning to its present use as a private residence in 1998.

Haggs Castle 1933

Front view of Haggs Castle, 1933


Rear view of Haggs Castle and associated outbuildings

Rear view of Haggs Castle and associated outbuildings on the old road from Pollokshaws to Govan



Drawing of Haggs Castle from the south-east Drawing of Haggs Castle from the south-west

Drawings of the ruins of Haggs Castle before restoration


Engraving of restored Haggs Castle

Engraving of restored Haggs Castle


Trees growing alongside the pavements of Pollokshields

Trees growing alongside the pavements of Pollokshields


Pollokshields Burgh Hall, which was gifted to the district by Sir John Stirling Maxwell

Pollokshields Burgh Hall, which was gifted to the district by Sir John Stirling Maxwell


Pollokshields coat of arms

Pollokshields arms carved into stonework over entrance to Burgh Hall, with date of 1890


Moonlight over Pollokshields Burgh Hall

Moonlight over Pollokshields Burgh Hall


The Sherbrooke Castle Hotel was designed by architects, J.Thomson & R.Sandilands as a private residence, 'Rhuadsgeir', at 11 Sherbrooke Avenue. Their drawing of the house, below, was displayed at the annual exhibition of the Royal Glasgow Institute of the Fine Arts in 1896.

Drawing of 'Rhuadsgeir', 11 Sherbrooke Avenue, later Sherbrooke Castle Hotel, 1896

Drawing of 'Rhuadsgeir', later Sherbrooke Castle Hotel, 1896


Sherbrooke Castle Hotel

Sherbrooke Castle Hotel


Night time view of floodlit Sherbrooke Castle Hotel

Night time view of floodlit Sherbrooke Castle Hotel


'Kelmscott' is an out-of-the ordinary villa situated in Springkell Avenue, close to the Sherbooke Castle Hotel. The architect, John Nisbet, skilfully fused elements of the then fashionable Arts and Crafts style with the familiar Scots Baronial style to seen throught West Pollokshields.
Nisbet's exhibition drawing of the house, below, was displayed at the annual exhibition of the Royal Glasgow Institute of the Fine Arts in 1903.

Exhibition Drawing of 'Kelmscott', Pollokshields

Exhibition Drawing of 'Kelmscott', Pollokshields, 1903


This photograph of the house was taken in 1905, just after its completion. It shows that the 'as-built' version was very close to that envisioned by the architect in the perspective drawing displayed two years earlier. The garden shrubbery had just recently been planted, with the trees being mere saplings.

Photograph of 'Kelmscott', Pollokshields, 1905

Photograph of 'Kelmscott', Pollokshields, 1905


This photograph of Kelmscott from 2014 shows how well preserved the villa has been over the last hundred-plus years. It is a beautiful example of Edwardian domestic architecture, retaining all its original exterior features in pristine condition.

Photograph of 'Kelmscott', Pollokshields, 2014

Photograph of 'Kelmscott', Pollokshields, 2014


Architect, H.E. Clifford's exhibition drawing of Sutherland House, Pollokshields, 1900

Architect, H.E. Clifford's exhibition drawing of Sutherland House, Pollokshields, 1900


Photograph of Sutherland House, Pollokshields, 2014

Photograph of Sutherland House, Pollokshields, 2014


Architect's elevation of 'Beneffrey', Pollokshields, 1910

Architect's elevation of 'Beneffrey', Pollokshields, 1910


Architect's photograph of 'Beneffrey', Pollokshields, 1915

Architect's photograph of 'Beneffrey', Pollokshields, 1915


Photograph of 'Beneffrey', Pollokshields, 2014

Photograph of 'Beneffrey', Pollokshields, 2014


'Norwoodville' in Nithsdale Road is a typical Pollokshields style detached cream sandstone villa which has been converted for use as a mosque, known as 'Madrasa Taleem Ul Islam'. The house was first occupied in 1882 and was in use as a synogogue from 1928 to 1984. It then became a private dwelling before assuming its current use as a mosque.

Photograph of 'Norwoodville', Pollokshields, 2017

Photograph of 'Norwoodville', Pollokshields, 2017


Interior of 'Madrasa Taleem Ul Islam' mosque, Pollokshields

Interior of 'Madrasa Taleem Ul Islam' mosque, Pollokshields


Architect's drawing of 'Ardtornish', Pollokshields, 1893

Architect's drawing of 'Ardtornish', Sutherland Avenue Pollokshields, 1893

'Ardtornish' was designed by James Miller in an Anglified Arts & Crafts style, very different from his later Chicago inspired commercial architecture which graced Glasgow city centre in the inter-war years of the twentieth century.
The villa displays an unusual combination of materials, blending typical Scottish red sandstone with very English mock-Tudor timber detailing. The arches at the loggia are supported by cast-iron columns.

'Ardtornish', Sutherland Avenue Pollokshields, August 2016

'Ardtornish', Sutherland Avenue Pollokshields, August 2016


'Matheran' is one of the largest and finest villas in the area, situated on a commanding site at the corner of Sherbrooke Avenue and Springkell Avenue.
The architects of the house were Messrs. Frank Burnet, Boston and Carruthers. Their exhibition drawing of the house, below, was displayed at the annual exhibition of the Royal Glasgow Institute of the Fine Arts in 1904.

Exhibition drawing of 'Matheran', Pollokshields, 1904

Exhibition drawing of 'Matheran' at corner of Sherbrooke Avenue and Springkell Avenue


Corner view of 'Matheran', Pollokshields

Corner view of 'Matheran', Pollokshields


Entrance to 'Matheran' from Springkell Avenue, AD 1903

Entrance to 'Matheran' from Springkell Avenue, "AD 1903"


'Matheran' was occupied by the Glasgow School of Occupational Therapy before reverting to residential use at the end of 2002.

Springkell Avenue façade of 'Matheran', Pollokshields

Springkell Avenue façade of 'Matheran', Pollokshields


Nearby you can find 'Inchgarvie', another large villa designed by Messrs. Frank Burnet, Boston and Carruthers around the same time as 'Matheran'.
The exhibition drawings of the two massive villas were displayed side-by-side at the annual exhibition of the Royal Glasgow Institute of the Fine Arts in 1904.

'Inchgarvie' Sherbrooke Avenue, Pollokshieldss

'Inchgarvie' Sherbrooke Avenue, Pollokshields


Illustration of 'Oaklands',  Sherbrooke Avenue, from 1904

Illustration of 'Oaklands', Sherbrooke Avenue, from 1904


Photograph of 'Oaklands', Sherbrooke Avenue, from 2014

Photograph of 'Oaklands', Sherbrooke Avenue, from 2014


House under construction, Pollokshields

If you are lucky enough to find a development plot for a new house in the Conservation Area, Glasgow City Council will ensure that it is built in the style of the existing properties surrounding it.

The house under construction, above, is situated in Sherbrooke Avenue. When it is completed the stonework and building style will make it blend in naturally with the beautiful houses erected a century earlier. its good to know that old fashioned workmanship is still around in Glasgow and traditional construction skills haven't been completely overtaken by the modern world.

Further examples of exhibition drawings of large villas can be viewed at the Domestic Architecture of Glasgow's South Side page of this website.


University bound tramcar at junction of Nithsdale Road and St Andrew's Drive

University bound tramcar at junction of Nithsdale Road and St Andrew's Drive


1905 view of tramcar on route from Gordon Street to Pollokshields

1905 view of tramcar on route from Gordon Street to Pollokshields


Pollokshields Established Church was designed by Stirling born architect, Robert Baldie. His design drawings were exhibited at the annual exhibition of the Glasgow Institute of Fine Arts in 1875. The opening service for the church building was held on May 19, 1878.

Pollokshields Established Church, built at the corner of Shields Road and Albert Drive in 1878

Pollokshields Established Church, built at the corner of Shields Road and Albert Drive in 1878


Tracery on window of Pollokshields Parish Church

Tracery on window of Pollokshields Parish Church


Interior view of Pollokshields Parish Church

Interior views of Pollokshields Parish Church

Interior view of Pollokshields Parish Church


Communion Table at Pollokshields Parish Church, designed by William Gardner Rowan, 1912

Communion Table at Pollokshields Parish Church, designed by William Gardner Rowan, 1912


Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church

Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church


Photograph of newly built Sherbrooke Church, 1900

Photograph of newly built Sherbrooke Church, 1900


Doorway at Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church, flanked by carved figures

Doorway at Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church, flanked by carved figures


Tracery on window of Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church

Tracery on window of Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church


Eagle lectern at Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church

Eagle lectern at Sherbrooke St Gilbert's Church


Old view of Glencairn Drive and Pollokshields Glencairn Church

View of Glencairn Drive with Pollokshields Glencairn Church in the distance

Pollokshields Glencairn Church was known as Trinity UP Church when it first opened in 1891. The body of the church was was destroyed by fire in 1988, leaving the east window (below) as the last remaining part of the building. This remnant can be viewed from Shields Road near the corner with Glencairn Drive.

Remains of east window of Pollokshields Glencairn Church

Remains of east window of Pollokshields Glencairn Church


Perspective drawing of Pollokshields Trinity UP Church by architect, W.G. Rowan

Perspective drawing of Pollokshields Trinity UP Church by architect, W.G. Rowan, 1892


Old map showing Trinity UP Church shortly after it was built

Old map showing Trinity UP Church shortly after it was built


Another church to be mysteriously destroyed by fire was Pollokshields UP Church in Leslie Street, East Pollokshields, which was burnt out in 1983.
The church was designed by W. F. McGibbon and was built in 1882.

Pollokshields UP Church, Leslie Street

Pollokshields UP Church, Leslie Street


Pollokshields Heritage organise an annual lecture series held in the former Pollokshields Congregational Church, close to Maxwell Park Station. I was delighted to present an illustrated talk as part of the 2018-2019 programme.

Pollokshields Heritage Lecture Series, 2018-19

Pollokshields Heritage Lecture Series, 2018-19


Pollokshields Congregational Church in Fotheringay Road was designed by architects Steele & Balfour in a modest Gothic style. It was formally opened on April 18th, 1903 and is currently used by Hutchesons Grammar School as the 'Fotheringay Centre', a theatre/ concert hall with ancillary accommodation for lectures and seminars.

Photograph of Fotheringay Centre, 2014

View of Fotheringay Centre, 2014


Unsuccessful design for interior of Pollokshields Congregational Church, Watson & Salmond, 1902

Unsuccessful design for interior of Pollokshields Congregational Church, Watson & Salmond, 1902


Former Pollokshields Free Church, built in 1878

Former Pollokshields Free Church, designed by W.G. Rowan and built in 1878


Pollokshields Free Church is currently used as a nursing home, Nithsdale Lodge

Pollokshields Free Church is currently used as a nursing home, Nithsdale Lodge


East Pollokshields, which was a burgh in its own right from 1880, was situated to the east of Shields Road. It offered an interesting contrast to the leafy avenues of large villas in the burgh of Pollokshields. It was built as an up-market tenemental area of large flats with facilities such as shops and schools, which were lacking in the garden suburb.

Open topped tram in Nithsdale Road with Pollokshields Free Church in background

Open topped tram in Nithsdale Road with Pollokshields Free Church in background


Drawing of Kitchin's Corner, Pollokshields, by Gerald Blaikie

Drawing of "Kitchin's Corner", Pollokshields


1920's street scene at Albert Drive, Pollokshields

1920's street scene at Albert Drive, Pollokshields


1920's view of Kenmure Street, Pollokshields

1920's view of Kenmure Street, Pollokshields


Terraced houses on the eastern side of Shields Road, on the dividing line of the old burgh boundaries

Terraced houses on the eastern side of Shields Road, on the dividing line of the old burgh boundaries


St Ninian's Episcopal Church at the corner of Albert Drive and Pollokshaws Road was designed by architect David Thomson (1831-1910), who was also responsible for many of the tenement blocks of East Pollokshields. The foundation stone was laid on 16th September 1872 by Dr. William S. Wilson, Bishop of Glasgow and Galloway. St Ninian's was the south side's first Episcopal church, predating the much larger and grander St Margaret's in Newlands by half a century.
The site of the building was donated by Sir John Maxwell, along with an annuity of £100 in perpetuity to "the clergyman of the first Episcopal Church that should be built and consecrated on his lands or on lands adjacent to his." Rev. Michael. B. Hutchison was the first recipient of this grant.

St Ninian's Episcopal Church, Albert Drive

St Ninian's Episcopal Church, Albert Drive


Interior of St Ninian's Episcopal Church, Albert Drive

Interior of St Ninian's Episcopal Church, Albert Drive


Altar and decorative panels  at St Ninian's Episcopal Church, Pollokshields

Altar and decorative panels at St Ninian's Episcopal Church, Pollokshields


The former Copelawhill Tram Works and Depot was built on the land surrounding St Ninian's Episcopal Church in Albert Drive and Pollokshaws Road. It is currently home to the Tramway Arts Centre.

Albert Drive frontage of former Copelawhill tram depot, now the Tramway Arts Centre

Albert Drive frontage of former Copelawhill tram depot, now the Tramway Arts Centre


Original bays of Copelawhill tram depot, now the Tramway Arts Centre

The original horse tram depot at Copelawhill was built in stages from 1894 to the designs of W. Clark with trams garaged at ground level and stabling for the horses on the first floor.

First floor stalls of stables overlooking courtyard of former Copelawhill tram depot

First floor stalls of stables overlooking courtyard of former Copelawhill tram depot


An unexpected feature of the Tramway is a surviving equestrian staircase which led to 8 stables on the first floor with 36 horses per stable.
Access to the stables was provided by very gently sloping flight of steps with 4½ in. risers that could be safely negotiated by horses. The steps had non-slip metal surfaces frequently divided by transverse ridges forming the criss-cross pattern.

Equestrian staircase at former Copelawhill tram depot, Pollokshields

Equestrian staircase at former Copelawhill tram depot, Pollokshields


First horse trams to be operated by Glasgow Corporation

First horse trams to be operated by Glasgow Corporation

This photograph shows the very first trams to be operated by Glasgow Corporation while in procession to the newly opened depot at Coplawhill.
From 1872, prior to the establishment of the municipal transport system, horse drawn trams had been operated in by the Glasgow Tramway and Omnibus Company. At the end of June 1894 the operation of the tramway was taken over by Glasgow Corporation who already owned and maintained the track.
The depot of the Glasgow Tramway & Omnibus Company had been situated in Tobago Street, Calton, close to Glasgow Green. The stables there had stalls for horses on the both first and second floors with the top floor being used as a hay loft.
The Corporation had decided in 1897 to convert the tram system to electric traction and the following year the Springburn route was the first to be electrified. Horse drawn trams were fully withdrawn from service in the city by the end of April 1902.



Dixon Halls, Crosshill

Gorbals

Pollokshields, Garden Suburb
-

Govan
-

Strathbungo & Crossmyloof
-

Mount Florida
-

Pollok Park & the Burrell
-

Langside and Battlefield
-

White Cart Walk, Pollok Park
-

King's Park
-

Rivers: Brock, Levern & Cart
-

Castlemilk

Pollokshaws & Auldhouse
-

Queen's Park Churches
-

Shawlands & Pollokshaws Churches
-

Muirend to Cathcart
-

Old Cathcart
-

Newlands & Merrylee
-

White Cart Walk, Linn Park
-

Cathcart Circle - A Railway Tour
-

East Renfrewshire Suburbs
-

 England, Ireland, USA
Architectural drawings -

All original artwork, photography and text © Gerald Blaikie
Unauthorised reproduction of any image on this website is not permitted.

Contact me